A lifetime ago, as a third year engineering student, I spent some time travelling through Rajgir, Nalanda and Kathmandu. I bicycled around the Kathmandu valley until I ran out of money. On the bus journey to Kathmandu, I had my first taste of Himalayan foothills.
That trip shaped my perception of travel. Unknowingly, I had bought into Warner Herzog's declaration, "Walking is virtue, tourism deadly sin."
A few years back, on a whim, I took a flight to Kathmandu from Calcutta and (to cut a long story short) after two days, landed in Jomsom, in a tiny airstrip squeezed next to a mountain. Next morning, my flight back to Pokhara was cancelled due to inclement weather. It was cancelled the morning after too. And the morning after that.
if life were a fairy tale, I would had been thrilled to be stranded in the sub-Tibetan plateau. But instead, along with a German logistics manager from Singapore equally desperate to get back, I started a long march back to Pokhara. We made it in 4 days (or was it 5?, I forgot). My friend's porter was furious. Our feet were swollen and full of blisters.
But I consider myself incredibly fortunate that I had to walk back to Pokhara. One of the things that I want to do again in life is to do the entire Annapurna circuit. I wanna do it properly. I keep trying to talk my wife into it.
But it may be a very long time before we can take such a trip. The news coming out of Nepal over the last few weeks has been deeply troubling. In a recent editorial, Financial Times said that Nepal has had one of the highest numbers of 'disappearances' in the past year.
Earlier this month, Nepal's king Gyanendra sacked the elected government and assumed power himself. The Nepalese people have been offering both overt and covert resistance (via Acorn). But in the short term, I am not hugely upbeat about the prospect - either of Nepali politicians to regain power or of the King's ability to fight back the Maoists. Nepal seems likely to start a descend into the kind of violence that Peru went through with 'Shining Path'. In fact, last year a BBC story claimed that the Maoists may had been inspired by the Shining Path rebels. The terrain and the economic conditions are certainly similar.
Neither Nepal's trouble with democracy, nor its Maoist problems can be resolved without genuine support from its two big neightbours. Unfortunately, Gyanendra seems to have reached some sort of a quid pro quo with China (via Acorn). India seems to be struggling to find the right tone (for once I can't crib about our policy makers. The situation does call for hand wringing).
From my short trips to Nepal, I took away an impression of subterranean resentment towards India - I do not know if this is for real, but it is certainly reflected in a slightly condescending attitude towards the Nepalese among many in our country.
All through the hike down to Pokhara, I had seen (literally) hundreds of European, Israeli and a handful of American backpackers. Ghorapani - with one of the most spectacular views of the Himalayas that I have ever seen in my life- felt like an European tourist town with Nepalese innkeepers. But I did not meet another Indian. This can partly be explained by the higher cost of hiking in Nepal Himalayas. But I suspect that that we are also remarkably incurious about our next door neighbours ....
CNN has a timeline of Nepal's turbulent history.
By far, the best place to keep up with news from Nepal (or for that matter for any news on South Asian politics and foreign policy) is Acorn. I believe in a less mascular role for Indian foreign policy establishment than Nitin appears to, but I find his commentary on the South Asian affairs incredibly rich in both content and insight.