Many of today's leading commercial and fine-art photographers use the Holga as their principal camera (see Christopher James' workshop "The Alternative Camera"), not because it is a precision piece of equipment, but precisely because it is not. The Holga is used by successful photographers to create imaginative and innovative images for magazine ads, editorial assignments and for personal work seen on the walls of leading galleries and museums. It is the Holga's inherent problems - its lack of sharp focus, lens distortion, light leaks, and aberrations - that give it its unique qualities. Light leaks and accidental double exposures make the camera a fun tool, full of surprises. The Holga looks like (and is) a cheap carnival toy, but in the hands of a real artist, it becomes a creative tool. After you have come to know your Holga with a few test rolls of film, you will understand your camera and be able to use it more creatively.

You will also find that people respond to you differently when using this unobtrusive looking camera. It will be easier to approach people, because no one will suspect you are a serious photographer with "that fancy" camera in your hands. You will be able to get into places where professional cameras
are barred, and you will find that people respond more naturally when they are around a Holga.

You will find photography becoming a whole lot more fun. Since it is difficult to take this plastic camera seriously, you will wind up playing more which will directly affect the way you see, the way you work and the images you make. The camera's ability to advance the film only partially into the next frame allows for an extended frame. Double exposures are not only possible, but often unavoidable. Here are a few sample images to give you an idea of the possibilities:

The Holga in School

The Holga is an excellent teaching tool for young students, as well as graduate students. The film used is 120 so the negatives are large enough to study without the need to use an enlarger. The camera is a good leveling device and creates so many mistakes that the process of control is removed.

Exposures

The shutter speed is approximately 1/100th of a second. There are two aperture settings, about a stop different. One for full sun f-11, and another for overcast and cloudy situations, f-8. One click of the shutter button will give an adequate exposure under a bright sunny day with ASA 400 film. For deep shade and indoor photography you may wish to build up exposure with multiple shutter clicks. If you have a light meter you can calculate an approximate number of clicks to build up sufficient exposure. Experiment with your camera using a test roll of film to get a "feeling" for exposure situations.

Recommended Films

Overcast days: We suggest using TRI-X or another ASA 400 B&W film. If you wish to use color, we suggest a fast speed, negative color film with ASA
400.

Sunny days: We suggest using T-Max 100 or Plus-X 125. If you are going to use one film for both situations, use TRI-X, ASA 400.

Two Holgas Are Better Than One

Most serious photographers using the Holga have three or four cameras. Here are some of the reasons:

1. No two cameras see the same way, each is unique. Lens distortion, flare and frame lines will vary. Test each camera to discover its characteristics.
2. Having two cameras allows you to continue working without changing film in the field, or as often.
3. You can carry B&W film in one camera and color film in the other.
4. Since these cameras are cheap, they break and you will want a back-up.
5. The price per camera lessens, the more you purchase.
6. They make excellent awards and gifts for your more serious photography friends, and is a good way of saying, in a nice way, "Hey, lighten up. Have some fun for a change."

Loading Instructions

1. Remove the back by sliding the metal clips downward. Lift the back off.

2. Place a roll of 120 film in the left side of the camera. Stretch the film paper across the film plane area and insert the tapered end into the slot in the take-up spool on the right side of the camera. Make sure the black side of the film paper is toward the lens. Give the winding knob a few turns in the direction of the arrow, until the paper leader shows two arrows. Make sure to align the film with the camera edges so it will track and wind straight.

3. Replace the back and secure it with the retainer clips. Tape the camera up as described below.

4. Wind the film onto the take-up spool until #1 appears in the red window on the back of the camera. Dots and arrows warn you that #1 frame is coming up. You are now ready to take your first picture.

Never load film into any camera in open sunlight. Use in shade or in a dark room.

Making a Photograph

The problem with the Holga is that people tend to move the camera while clicking the shutter, added to the fuzzy images. This can be advantageous, or a pain. Hold the camera firmly in your hands and "press" the shutter release. Make yourself into a tripod. There is no tripod screw mount on the Holga, but you can gaffer tape your camera to a tripod head for steadier images. Or glue a threaded nut (what hardware stores call a quarter-twenty nut) to the base of the camera. Then it will fit the standard tripod screw. But be careful not to tighten it so hard that the screw goes into the bottom of the camera.

Focus

The Holga does not focus closer than about 3 feet. You will develop better judgment of distance once you have used the camera for a while.

Remember To Wind The film

This camera has no brain. It does not know to advance your film each time you make an exposure. You have to remember to wind the film to the next
number after each exposure. You won't remember every time and there will be some very interesting and often quite magical double exposures as a result. Do not get upset. These double exposure will often be your best and most interesting photographs-if you are open to seeing them for what they are: Magic.

Unloading the Camera

1. Turn the film advance knob until the film and its tail paper has been completely wound onto the take-up spool. You can generally feel when this happens.

2. Remove the back and take out the exposed film roll. Wind the end paper tightly, lick the sticker and seal the roll of film. It is ready for processing.

3. Move the empty film spool from the left to the right and load a fresh roll of film in the left side.

Loose Film

The Holga tends to wind the film onto the take-up spool in a loose fashion, allowing light to enter the exposed roll of film when it is removed from the
camera. We suggest you unload your Holga in the dark, use a changing bag or closet, then place the exposed film in a light tight box.

You can alleviate this situation somewhat by taking pieces of cardboard (torn-up film boxes work nicely) and jamming them in under the base of the film spools (both the new and take-up spools) when loading the camera.

Light Leaks

Most Holgas will leak a little light in bright sunny conditions. Since each camera is different, we recommend you use an initial test roll to determine where light leaks in your camera are coming from.

After you discover where those spikes of light are leaking in, you can apply black gaffer tape, or electrician's tape to the outside of the camera. We
recommend running a narrow strip of tape around the seam between the body and the camera back. A small tab of tape over the frame number window is
another good idea.

If you use the camera on its 6X6 cm setting (see below), there are two holes that must be taped to keep light out. After removing the frame insert, look
at the back of the camera's interior. You will see at the center is the shutter. Above and to each side, there is a small round hole. Put a small piece of opaque tape over each.